Anthurium propagation

One of the most important things to know about growing anthuriums from seed is that they need to be planted almost right after harvesting. They cannot easily be stored and they quickly lose viability. I have heard of storing them in clean water and doing a water change every day or so, but I haven’t done it myself to test it. First, collect the fruit and gently squeeze the seeds out. There are usually 1-3 seeds inside. Some people treat the seeds with a fungicide and this may help you with better germination rates, but I have had success with just cleaning the seeds by wiping them on a paper towel as I press down lightly. A side note, occasionally you will wait and wait for your seeds to ripen and when you go to plant, you will find that the seeds have not formed properly. You may have nothing inside or maybe just a weak, clear-colored seed. This is very discouraging, but often there are at least a few seeds in the batch. As far as a growing medium for seeds, I generally use AAA New Zealand sphagnum moss or a very well-draining potting mix like Promix mixed with at least 50% perlite. This is very important so that your seeds don’t mold or rot. Premoisten the surface of the mix before lightly pressing the cleaned seeds onto the surface of the soil. Do not bury them. Keep them in a warm humid location. If you have issues with humidity, a plastic Tupperware type of container with a lid can be used. This also helps deter snails who absolutely LOVE baby anthuriums. Apparently the more rare the seeds, the more of a delicacy they are. Normally I use cell trays and plant each seed in its own cell, but occasionally out of laziness I use hanging baskets and plant several at once and transplant later. They grow much better in the cell trays, separated. Anthurium seeds will generally begin to sprout within a few days to a week and it seems the growth rate depends on the size of the seed you are starting with. Some species have seeds the size of a grain of sand while others may have larger seeds the size of a fingernail. Larger seeds have more food for the growing anthurium and generally grow much more rapidly. As they grow, you can transplant them into 4″ pots or small hanging baskets. Once they get established they generally grow quickly. Vegetative propagation: If propagation by seed is too time consuming, (it certainly is for me) vegetative propagation may be preferred. This is basically just taking cuttings. I never do this during the winter or even after October here in South Florida because as the days get shorter, you are less likely to be successful. You may lose both the cutting and the mother plant by overzealous cutting at the wrong time of year. I’ve done it repeatedly, that’s how I know. I normally start cutting on March 1. Get out of the way!! I’ve got knives, clippers and machetes depending on the size of the plant. If it’s a more delicate or valuable plant, I may even wait a bit longer. By June, I can cut anything and throw it in the bushes or mulch pile and it will still root quicker than a March cutting. If you have mist on a timer you can be a little more aggressive with cuttings, they will root faster and easier. Normally the top portion is cut off with some roots and planted in a very well draining mix or sphagnum moss. Sometimes there are offsets from the mother plant that you can separate. I also do stem section cuttings. I will cut a section of stem into about 2″ pieces, making sure there are at least two nodes and set each in its own pot sideways.

Menu